Often the most intimate glimpse into a foreign culture can be achieved through integration of neighborhood gems, a task which is particularly easy when all of the gems are located in your neighborhood! Residing in the trendy Le Marais, we frequented nearby boulangeries by day and in the evenings, set aside hours for extended, indulgent, often by candlelight, unabashedly romantic dinners to be savored and remembered long after the course of the meal.
It was hard to pick my favorites, but I present the following four restaurants with the very highest regards: (note- photos are limited with respect for both the settings and appreciation of the moment)
Robert et Louise: 64 Rue Vieille du Temple 75003 (pictured above)
On one of the coldest nights, we followed the scent of a wood-burning stove into an intimate hotspot that had clearly been whispered among the young and elite. We opted for seats at the bar and at once found ourselves elbow to elbow with the locals and instantly enchanted by the buzzing atmosphere and aroma of roasting meat. Feeling charmed by the moment and noticing plates of escargot among diners, I was inclined to order my first taste of French snails. Matt couldn’t resist a steak cooked on the centric wood burning stove, or for that matter, requesting a second helping of the sautéed potatoes, which he declared were the best “dans le monde” and despite the risk of blowing our anonymity by appearing to seek US portions. The waiter agreed with a knowing smile, and later discouraged our choice of crème brûlée for an oversized chocolate brownie that, like our evening in this authentic and cozy little den, we savored every moment of.
Le Pantruche: 3, rue Victor Massé 75009
Le Pantruche is a small, classic French bistro nestled in a storefront near Pigalle and boasting a menu by a chef with high notoriety. Apparently, Chef Franck Baranger studied below Christian Constant, the latter praised as the master of the modern bistro. This seemed a fitting choice for one of our first afternoons in Paris, and we were delighted to squeeze in among an intimate crowd for a long, leisurely prefix lunch, ordered off a large chalkboard brought to the table by a very patient waiter as I dusted off my recently dormant French language skills. The highlight of our meal was my butternut, pumpkin, and truffle oil soup, so rich that despite a bit of help from across the table, I may have taken a whole half hour to savor every bite.
La Fidelite: 12 Rue Fidélité 75010 Paris, France
My first glimpse of La Fidelite was curbside with a craning, upward glance at a vertical sign missing six of its ten neon letters. I immediately made a prediction of a hole-in-the-wall setting relying heavily on charm, yet as I walked through the door I lost these ideals as quickly as my breath. In no way had the unassuming exterior prepared me for such elegant decor. My eyes traveled up the expansive white walls to high ceilings embellished with intricate moldings, and back down to a room full of red leather booths and bright white tablecloths. The brasserie was packed with large groups and heavy chatter and we immediately felt we had joined one giant, very trendy party. I was not surprised to learn La Fidelite was owned by André Saraiva and Lionel Bensemoun of Le Baron, or to discover the bar beneath for after dinner drinks. We skipped this part, satiated by an incredible 2007 Bordeaux, and instead, headed straight to Le Baron itself.
Le Mini Palais: Le Mini-Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill
Ironically, our most formal dining experience occurred on an evening of pouring rain, however this inconvenience could not possibly keep me from wearing the chiffon dress I had packed for the occasion. While closing a giant umbrella, I stepped my soaking suede pumps across the threshold and onto a pristine marble floor. Suddenly I could not differentiate whether I had entered a museum, or a palace, as the high ceilings and walls were decorated with large scale, formal artwork- busts and urns and majestic works of many sorts. The allure continued as we were escorted to our seats and served an immediate glass of champagne and complimentary gougères (cheese puffs!) The next course was Pil-Pil squid followed by almond crusted Merlan, and I was enthralled every moment of our meal up to the last point where we shared one giant “crazy pot” dessert: vanilla ice cream, meringue, caramel, chocolate sauce, and a biscuit, all of which was set aside our more modest choice of strawberries, yogurt sorbet, and basil, because either alone would surely not have been enough. ;)
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